Description
DDRGame is pleased to announce the Energy Metal Dance Pad. You have never seen anything like the Energy Metal Dance Pad before. The Energy Metal Dance Pad features the super-sensitive-definetely-no-more-delay technology with our brand new look and offers Three-in-One multi-platform plug that works flawlessly with the PS One, PS2,XBOX, and PC/Mac via USB. The Energy Metal Dance Pad is also compatible with the PS3 or the Wii/Gamecube with an optional adapter. The Energy Metal Dance Pad features recessed arrow buttons that accurately recreate the look and feel of an arcade platform, and they let you know exactly where you are on the pad at all times. From complete novices to experienced experts, you can now epxerience skill levels that can match your abilities. Whether you are competing against the challenges of the game or you are seeking particular opponents to match your wits and dexterity, the Energy Metal Dance Pad will provide you with a completely new and rich experience.
Features
- Control Box Included (works with PS One, Playstation 2, XBOX, and PC/Mac)
- Larger sensors for better sensitivity
- Features a striking new design
- Recessed buttons let you know where you are stepping all the time
- The entire platform is metal, weight approximately 30LBS
Customer Reviews

Japanese DDRer
レビューが英語ばかり(当たり前ですが)なので参考になればと思いここに書かせて頂きます。当方日本に住んでおり、日本に発送してもらいたい、という人向けのレビューです。まず注文から発送までの流れですが、他のコントローラーが送料だけで数万円もかかってしまうのに対し、このコントローラーは米Amazonが発送を行なってくれるため、1000円程度で済みます。なので私は18000円ぐらいでこのコントローラーを手に入れることが出来ました。発送から到着まで4日から2週間程度かかる、とのことでしたが、注文してから5日で品物が届きました。購入のしやすさはさすがAmazonだと思います。コントローラーとしての感想。PCと接続してStepmaniaで遊んでいます。(判定を合わせるのが簡単なため)そのため、遅延等はよくわかりません。ただパネル自体の反応はよく、フリーズアローも抜けることなく快適にDDRを楽しむことができます。踏んだ感じが沈む、というレビューがよくありますが、感じ的には基盤とかについているペコペコするスイッチを踏んだような感じがします。ただ、逆にこれが踏んでいるのか踏んでいないのかを感覚的につかめるようになるため、ものすごく遊びやすいです。裏が全面滑り止め加工してあるため、現在の難易度表でいうところのLv17等を踏んでもコントローラーが動くことなく、快適に発狂譜面を遊べます。ただ、パネルを固定しているネジの山が大きく、裸足でやるとこのネジに足を引っ掛けて怪我してしまうため、靴が必須となります。自分は普段からACは裸足で遊んでいるので足の裏の皮が硬いため、特に怪我をしてはいませんが、普通の方が裸足でやると間違いなく切り傷ができてしまうかと。裸足でやりたい方は対策として、5mmの超低頭ネジをホームセンター等で購入してネジを交換することをおすすめします。これで引っかかりもなくなり、スライド踏みも安心して行えます。はじめはバーが無いと辛いなぁと思っていましたが、バー無しになれて家でDDRをすれば見違えるようにACのスコアの精度が上がっていきます。家でちゃんとDDRをやりたい、と思っている方は是非迷わず買ってみてください。お勧めです!Let me write here and I think it would be helpful so review (but of course) English only.It is a review for those who have lived in Japan for us, that, I want you to ship to Japan.It is the flow of the ship from the first order, while they also took several hundred dollars just another controller carriage, for the U.S. Amazon will do the shipping, this controller requires only about 1000 yen.I was able to get this controller so in about 18000 yen.Were to be with, take about 4 days to 2 weeks to arrive from the ship, the goods arrived in 5 days from order.Ease of purchase, I truly think Amazon.Thoughts as a controller.I'm playing with Stepmania connected to the PC. (The judgment is easier to fit)Therefore, delay, etc. I do not know.Reaction of the panel itself and you can enjoy a comfortable DDR without well, slipping out just freeze arrow.The reviews often feel that you step on, sinking, feeling like stepping crawl to a feeling that the switch is attached to the base or to.However, in order to grasp so sensuously whether or not this is in stepping are stepping in reverse, it is incredibly easy to play.without moving the controller for the back is machined entirely non-slip, even stepped on Lv17, etc. For the purpose of the current table difficulty, play the music mad comfortable.However, because you just hooked a leg injury to this screw pile of screws that secure the panel is large, and do it barefoot, shoes it is mandatory.Because the skin of the sole of the foot is stiff, his Although not hurt, especially AC so playing barefoot regularly, and I do it and be cut definitely towards the ordinary and do it barefoot.If you want to do with barefoot is recommended that as a measure, replace the screws, etc. purchased at home centers ultra low head screws 5mm.No longer caught in this, I can with confidence slide step.I thought that the beginning is painful and there is no bar Naa, the accuracy of the score of AC is far better off now I will go up if you do DDR accustomed to at home without bar.Please try not hesitate and buy all means those who are, I think I want to do a DDR perfectly at home. It is recommended! Read more ›

Leah
I bought one of these Dance pads after doing tons of research. It came in the mail very quickly (though I bought from step2ddr, not amazon). There is a connector box that goes between the pad and the system for some reason that has the "start" and "select" buttons on it. This is the only stupid feature about the product. It has caused the pad to short out a couple times. My SO and I play very heartily on this pad (about 2.5 hours a day since June 1) and it is sturdy enough to handle our constant barrage of steps. The buttons work great in terms of sensitivity! There has been no cracking on the arrows, the sensor zone is large, and the sunken arrows really create an ease of play. You must wear shoes for this pad or you will hurt yourself!UPDATE: It's been about 6 months of owning the dance pad, and a week ago, one of the buttons finally cracked. This hasn't affected gameplay at all, but if it ever did, you can purchase new ones (they're easily removeable). The pad will short out from time to time, but that happens to me a lot less than it does to my SO - maybe it's a weight thing. It's corrected by disconnecting and reconnecting the cables.If I didn't own this pad, I wouldn't be nearly as good at DDR as I am now. It's very fun and pretty, and I'm proud to own it. There's no feeling like being able to play DDR on a hard pad every day for as long as you want without having to pay. It's well worth the initial money, and the small issues are pretty standard on many gaming items. I have a feeling I'd still be shelling out $20-50 every few weeks or months if I continued to try to use the soft/semi-hard pads.

rahul
i couldn't get my hands on a cobalt flux so i went with this pad instead:* three weeks in and the right arrow started to malfunction. i got it working again by removing the panel (four screwed brackets) and cleaning the sensor surface.* four weeks later the same thing happened to the up arrow. same problem, same solution.* four more weeks and the down arrow stopped working. i had to add some sheet metal under the panel to get the sensor to start registering again (the trick was that one end had to remain in contact with the metallic frame).so the sensor design is rubbish (copper plated, activated by foil under the panels), but i think the sheet metal solution (26 gauge, $5 at home depot) will hold up and i plan on redoing all the sensors this way if/when they break down.other than that the pad is decent:* it moves a little bit on carpet but nothing worrisome.* the select and start buttons are located on the control box rather than the pad.* the arrows don't light up when you step on them.their website indicates no refunds after 30 days and their tech. support is exactly as useless as you can imagine so be prepared to DIY if you want to get your $230 worth. bottom line is that i would now go with one of the $150 pads instead of this one since i believe they use the same sensor design and would require the same level of maintenance.

Holonet
Like others, I agree this pad is pretty good with modifications. I'll just list the design flaws first. The buttons are far too insensitive. It works by the plastic buttons flexing and the travel distance is too far, which is probably also a contributor to them cracking as has happened to some. Also, the foil adhered to the button to make the electrical contact with the sensor is, indeed, nearly worthless. It will wear or bunch up very quickly. The wire used to go to the sensor pads is very flimsy. After a week or so, I already had one break at the solder joint. Further, this could have been avoided by having them contact the side of the sensor instead of soldered on top, where they take some physical abuse from stomping. This is dismaying because it is not a cost issue, but a stupidity issue. I should add that the pad boasts of being capable of taking 600 lbs, and these flaws were evident with me and my friend, and both together, we would probably be about 380. One last thing--the middle of the pad and the corner buttons/platforms are too high. The company brags about "recessed" buttons so you can feel them. This is silly. The buttons are easy to detect regardless, and the raised metal makes for getting in the way of your foot pressing down, and even hurting it if your foot steps partly on the button, and partly on the adjacent platform. This is yet another example of something that really shouldn't be wrong with it because it would cost nothing for them to be lower (in fact, would be less material)...just complete devoid of intelligent design.Anyhoo, the fixes. The sheet metal remedy otherwise referred to seems to be pretty good, except I actually ended up using 2 layers of the 26 gauge. 1 layer was still too insensitive for me, making the very difficult songs sure to miss notes. I ended up using brass, just because it's more corrosion resistant and a good conductor. 2 layers of it, cut in the exact shape of the sensor/foil backing, and I used contact cement to stick the layers together and to stick the metal to the button (after peeling off the cheap backing from the button). Epoxy will surely do the job if something stronger is needed. With this modification, the buttons work quite well, and the travel distance is greatly reduced, so it should also theoretically make a large decrease in the chance of the button deforming and/or cracking. I will say it doesn't seem to be perfect. There's a rare occasional note rip-off, sometimes when coming off the button, but I think that could be further amended with extending the foam under the buttons a little closer to the sensor (so part of the metal isn't touching in some random spot as the button is released--it needs to come up all at once). Side note--I recommend using a Dremel with the heavy duty cutting wheels (I went through 2 of them for this project) to cut the sheet metal, so you don't deform the factory flatness.If the solder connection breaks, it can be resoldered, of course, but it's also simple to take some very thin brass (like on the sensor), and extend both poles of the circuit off to the side of the sensor pad, and solder to the side if to prevent it from repeat offenses. All the metal can be ordered online, of course.As for the platforms, for the middle one and the two back ones, I unscrewed the metal covers, and used a planer to take off about 3/16" on them. I have a nice Dewalt hand planer which did most of it, and a chisel to get at the corners where I couldn't plane. This wasn't too tough work, because it's composite crap wood, but one must be careful to do the job evenly.Remaining were the two buttons on top, which were too high and slightly in the way, just as the 3 inert platforms. These cannot be planed down because they are functioning buttons, not just wood. Fortunately, under the metal covers, there is a cardboard spacer inserted into it (with glue). The cardboard is about the same thickness as the amount shaven down, so it works out to remove them, and add a piece of sheet metal just as was done on the arrows (one or two here...doesn't matter much, but I used 2) to take up the travel that will still be there. Removing the cardboard isn't too tough if you have the tools. First, lay the button, face side down on something reasonably flat, and taking a chisel, carefully dig away a hole in the cardboard as a starting point. The glue is a bit stubborn. Be careful here or you will dent the metal. I had a paint removing heat gun...and my friend held it with oven mitts and heated the button from the top side, while I used the chisel to pull away from the aforementioned hole. You need to use the chisel (or whatever) to physically cut the stretchy strands of glue, but it will eventually come off without too much trouble. Then, cementing in a bit of sheet metal, the button works with a light press. It would work without it, but it might deform the metal button, and you otherwise have to press down a bit roughly.So in short, if you have the tools I used, you might pay a modest amount more in materials to do this. I would still rather take a day and so modify this pad than spend the rather painful amount of money on one of the beastly full arcade pads, but boy, is it a fine example of how to do something badly.I did find another option, but I don't have a welder so I didn't entertain it...but if you want something done right, do it yourself :-D ===> Go to google Ultimate DDR Pad and go to the inventgeek site -- Amazon doesn't seem to like links) Read more ›
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